I’d go out and for a while I had no problems, no worries. Just the sea, and the air, paddlin’ hard to catch a good break, then the magic of the sl...de along the face of the wave, the sea green and white around you, the board slicin’ through the water, crestin’ the water, makin’ you feel as if you were flyin’.When I got tired I would strip off my wetsuit – the water was almost always freezin’, but often the sun was too warm on the thick black neoprene – and lie around on my towel enjoyin’ the. “I’ll make sure they’ll pay for this. But right now, you’re the one who needs to be attended. You look really pale. Let me make something for you.”Being the gentleman he is, that day, he cooked for me, washed my clothes, arranged my bed, cleaned my room, bought medicines for me. He even massaged my body, where I was in pain. That night he made me sleep in my bed, and he went and slept on the couch.“I’ll only leave after you’re better or when you ask me to. Fine?” he said and left.The next. More

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