As the board started to tug away from under him as it met the wave, he pushed up into a crouch, held his position for several seconds and then took hi... footing, splaying his feet for balance that seemed all too casual to have been of much use. As he rode the first swell of the wave, the board danced under his bare feet and the wax gripped at his soles. He was at home here as he was on the beach. It was all his life and nothing mattered when he was here. Other people lived their lives in a. His mother only the one sister and an older brother who did have a teenage daughter. Betty was her name. She was too young though. Only about ten if he remembered correctly.His father's sisters had two kids each. Lena had two boys and Selma had one of each. The daughter at fifteen was a year older than Tim. Tim remembered that Mary was cute and at one time had a crush on him. During a family get together all the cousins had gotten together in the basement of Tim's parent's house, sitting in the. More

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